We awakened to a beautiful day and after enjoying a croissant amandes et cafe crème on a bench by the Arc, we entered the bowels of the Metro and sped on to Des Halles. Once the location of Paris’ meat, vegetable and fruit markets (from 1183-1960’s), it is now the world’s busiest subway station, complete with a multi-level mall. We emerged back to sunlight, noticed spires, and set off to investigate.
They belonged to L’Eglise St-Eustache, claimed to be one of Paris’ most beautiful churches. Named for a Roman general who was burned along with his family for converting to Christianity, it was built over a period of 105 years, from 1532-1637, on a Gothic plan with Renaissance decoration. The inside is modeled on Notre Dame.
It is here that a young Louis XIV received communion, Mozart’s mother’s funeral was conducted, Richelieu was baptized, and Moliere was both baptized and married. I love our church stops and make it a habit to sit in silence, pray for peace, and listen.
We’d seen many photos of the Centre Georges Pompidou, and it was no more impressive in person. Completed in 1977 and named after the President of France 1969-1974, it’s called the “building that’s turned inside out” so that the inside is uncluttered and flexible. Among other things, it houses a large public library and the Musee National d‘Art Moderne (the largest museum of modern art in Europe. Only time for a walk by…
In only another block or two, we were passing by another Gothic church, L’Eglise St-Merri, that appeared to be in disrepair, but is still in use. The site of the church dates back to the 7th century, but the current church was constructed in the 1550s and houses the oldest bell in Paris (1331). It’s dedicated to the 8th century Abbot of Autun Abbey, Medericus, who went to Paris on pilgrimage and died there. In 884 he was named the Patron Saint of the Right Bank.
More spires? This turned out to be the Tour St-Jacques, a Gothic tower dating from 1523. It is all that remains of an ancient church that was noted for welcoming pilgrims setting out for Tours and headed for the way of St. James, the Santiago de Compostela. The church and tower were built in the early 1500s, and its patrons were the wealthy wholesale butchers of Les Halles. Blaise Pascal used it for barometric experiments. The church was demolished in the late 1700s.
Tower as seen from the Conciergerie, with the “Victory Column” of the Place du Chatelet.
Finally, we stopped at an outdoor café overlooking the Seine where we indulged in a café latte and Croque-Monsieur--a toasted ham and cheese (Emmental or Gruyere) sandwich topped with Mornay sauce and baked.
Check out the Bon Appetit website for the recipe of this pictured Mushroom Croque-Monsieur. YUM.
Refreshed, we crossed the Seine to the Left Bank and walked the Boulevard St-Michel to the Boulevard St-Germain and continued on that until we got to Danton’s statue. (I think this had been our original destination, and, now, nine hours later, I was tired enough that it would be our last this day.) Georges Danton was one of the early leaders of the French Revolution, and his statue stands near a small alleyway where the whispers of discontent against the monarchy, aristocracy and religious authority became an uproar.
Time to sip wine at an outdoor café while Bob indulges in moules-frites (mussels and French fries) before we head back to the hotel.
(Information obtained from Eyewitness Travel: Paris and Wikipedia. Photos from Wikipedia.)
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